Industry Speaks: Jamie Kelman

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Contributor: Jarrell Mosely

If you arrived late to Make-up designory’s Industry Speaks spotlighting Jamie Kelman (http://www.fleshycreatures.com/), finding an empty seat was not going to be easy. The crowd of MUD graduates, students and staff were unquestionably there to see Kelman and understandably so. He’s a skillful special make-up effects artist, an inspiration and a superb storyteller. This can be seen in his special make-up effects work seen in movies such as Looper, Oz the Great and Powerful and Star Trek: Into Darkness. It was also evident in the way he masterfully told an inspirational, and at times comedic, story of how he went from a thirteen year old doing special effects make-up in his basement to a two-time Emmy award winning make-up artist.

It didn’t take much prodding for Kelman to open up about his career as make-up artist and his love for special effects make-up which began as a three year old watching Star Trek for the first time. “I’m a Star Wars kid,” Kelman stated. “I saw it and the world just opened up before my eyes,” he smiled as he revisited the childhood memory. “I believe that’s where it all started for me.”

When asked about his first job Kelman replied, “I have to thank my uncle for that,” and then vividly recounted the day his uncle, a producer of New York’s Shakespeare in the Park, had taken him to an FX studio when he was just a teenager. “I started working in the studio. I swept the floors and did other odd jobs around the shop.” He reflected. “But I learned so much and it was also where I got my first job working on the 1990’s show Monsters.” Almost as if he didn’t believe so much time had passed he added, “I was only sixteen years old.”

He continued the time line of his career. “After that I studied film at NYU but I always wanted to move to L.A.” and without pause he added, “L.A. is just where it’s at,” referring to opportunities for the up and coming special FX artist.

“Do you think going to school helped you in your career,” Devrill Weekes asked.

The answer came quickly. “I do. School is a great way to dip your toe in the water. You learn a lot from the people around you. You may find a new technique. I always learned from the people that were around me.”

Since, you mentioned that,” Weekes said leading into his next question. “Who was your mentor?”

“I had many,” he said and then took a brief moment to ponder on their names. “Matthew Monge for sure. He gave me my first job on Monsters and I learned so much from him and John Jackson. Dick Smith and Rick Baker of course and Steve Proudy. Definitely Katzu.”

“What is advice would you give to a make-up artist that are just starting?”

He replied. “Make it work.” Stop, step back and take a breath. If something isn’t working don’t keep doing it. If you can, make it better.” It sounded like age old advice you would receive from an elder and it made perfect since.

“Do you have a philosophy or a personal mantra?”

“Nobody wants to works with mean people.” He replied and the audience was enveloped by laughter. “I try to be nice. I try to have fun and I try to enjoy it.” His advice resonated with many in the room.

He continued to impart his words of advice. “I would also say protect your passion.” He said before adding, “Keep your passion alive because once it dies you may not be able to turn it back on.

A hand in the audience shot into the air with urgency. “How do you balance your work with your personal life,” asked a front row MUD student.

“I have a 10 year old and I’m married. I make time for them. When you start out take everything you can but don’t stay apart for more than 8 weeks. After that scandalous things start to happen,” He laughed. “You have to remember what’s important, which means sometimes you may have to say no. It’s also important that you know when and how to say no.

Other eager hands flew up. “What was your biggest challenge?”

The question required some thought. “I would have to say that beauty make-up was my biggest challenge. But I realized that you have to embrace what you fear the most so I started practicing beauty make-up. When I was working on The Grinch that Stole Christmas none of the guys wanted to do beauty make-up so they came to me.”

The questions began to come quickly. “What are some of the critical mistakes you’ve seen a new make-up artist make?”

“Trying to fly under the radar is the biggest mistake a new make-up artist can make. You have to make yourself known. You have to be on the radar. Now you have social media like Facebook so you can post your work.” He answered but shortly added words of caution and food for thought. “But people are posting everything on the internet. Only post what’s good. It’s better to have five great pieces of work than ten ok pieces.”

“Any advice for establishing relationships with a mentor?”

Reach out to them. You can find them on the internet and on Facebook. Send them a respectful email. Try hard to be helpful but stay out of the easy and learn. You’ll find that most people are willing to help you.”

“What’s on your goals list,” an enthusiastic voice asked from the crowd.

“I don’t have a goals list.” He answered. “I love what I do and I’ve had an amazing career. I’m living my dream. You’re lucky for the opportunities. Just grab them.”

And with those final words Jamie Kelman ended his interview and the audience erupted with applause. Without question he’d left an undeniable impression and left many words to ponder on later, words that would undoubtedly resurface during the careers of the make-up artist following in his footsteps.

MUD’s Fall 2014 Make-up Tutorial

This make-up takes the 2014 Runway look: deep, wine colored lip and full brow and turns up the power by intensifying the eye, while balancing the look with a wash of cheek color. This look spotlights MUD’s new lip color Burlesque.

Products Used: Eyes: Brownstone Eye Color, Black Cake Eyeliner Lips: Mauve Lip Pencil, Burlesque Lipstick | Get the Look | See Behind the Scenes Photos of the Campaign

 

Face Chart Fall 2014
Face Chart Artist: Sean Conklin

(Left)

This look puts emphasis on the brows and lips and is more subtle on the eye make-up.

Brow: To create a “classic” eyebrow, follow the guidelines below. The inner brow line starts above the tear duct.

The arch (center line) is located at the outer edge of the iris. The outer brow is equal space from the inner brow line to the center line.

Draw in eye brow with a light shade in pencil or eye color. Once you achieved the “look”, layer the color with a slightly darker color for depth.

Eyes: For a soft and subtle eye treatment, use the Brownstone Eye Color with Brush 320.

Apply the color with a light sweeping motion from the lash line and cover the entire lid. Remove the excess color from the bristles and blend the hard edge in the crease to soften the look.

To define the eye, use the Black Cake Liner with the 100 Brush on the top lash line. Top it off with a coat of Volumizing Mascara.

For added dimension, apply the Brownstone on the lower lash line with Brush 210.

Lips: Use the Mauve Lip Pencil to define the lip line and to deepen the lip color. Layer the Burlesque Lipstick with Brush 310 for a rich color.

(Right)

Brow: To create a “classic” eyebrow, follow the guidelines below. The inner brow line starts above the tear duct.

The arch (center line) is located at the outer edge of the iris.

The outer brow is equal space from the inner brow line to the center line.

Draw in eye brow with a light shade in pencil or eye color. Once you achieved the “look”, layer the color with a slightly darker color for depth.

Eyes: To achieve this dramatic eye application, use a wet application of the Brownstone Eye Color with Brush 210. Do not spray water directly into the product. Dampen the bristles and then work into the color.

Open your eyes and look straight ahead.  If a good portion of your lid is exposed, place the brush on the center of the lid in the inner corner. Drag the brush through the center of the lid toward the outer corner of the eye.

Lift the outer edge to create a wing-like shape. Repeat the steps closer to the lash line using the Black Cake Liner. Keep the Brownstone exposed for the double liner effect. If you have a heavy fold or (hooded eye), apply the wet application of Brownstone slightly above the crease.

Use the Black Cake Liner to completely cover the entire lid. Meet the lines just above the crease in a winged-like shape.

Next, follow the lower lash line with a soft application of Brownstone with Brush 320.

Add the Black Cake Liner to define the lash line with Brush 210. Extend the lower lash line for a more dramatic look. Apply Lash 101.

Lips:  The dabbed lip is in for fall/winter 2014-15! To get this look, use your ring finger to apply the Burlesque Lipstick for a soft lip that still draws attention.

 

Mood Board_Fall 2014_Page_4_Eyes

 

 

Highly-Pigmented Cosmetics—What Does This Mean?

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People often ask, “are MUD products just for professionals?” Although our products are developed to meet professional standards, MUD cosmetics are available to everyone.  Every Saturday, Make-up Designory offers FREE workshops to help you better understand how to use MUD products as well as teach basic make-up application techniques.  The workshops are held at the MUD Shops in Los Angeles and New York and in some MUD Studio locations around the world.

MUD cosmetics are highly pigmented. What does this even mean? Products that are high in pigment are developed for professional use; they contain more color and coverage than other products. For instance, your over-the-counter liquid foundation contains about 15-25% pigment, while MUD’s cream foundation offers 40% pigment.  The benefits of a high pigment product are 1. you need less product to achieve full  coverage results 2. high pigment products are more versatile and 3.  they have long-lasting staying power.

A little product goes a long way.

Let’s use MUD’s cream foundation as an example. For a full coverage face application, you would typically use about ½ of what you would with an over-the counter foundation. This product is best applied by make-up sponge or MUD’s 940 foundation brush. The secret to achieving a flawless face is using the correct color (or color combination) and proper blending. The end result is a full, even, matte coverage. This type of make-up photographs wonderfully, so it’s great for bridal, special events, print work and film.

Versatility means you can use the product in more than one way.

MUD’s cream foundation has a silicone base and can be combined with other silicon base products like MUD’s Face Primer and MUD’s HD Air. For instance, if you want a sheer coverage with a dewy finish, you could combine a drop of Face Primer with a bit of cream foundation and mix (Image 2). The product will glide onto the face and result in a beautiful sheer finish. For problematic spots that might need more coverage, like dark spots and acne, you could apply a small amount of cream foundation on the spot and blend.

High pigment products have staying power.

The second element that determines the color/coverage of cosmetics is the vehicle. Vehicle is the element  of the base that gives it its slip, or the ability to move on the surface during application (for instance, the silicone in the cream foundation). Sometimes, the more vehicle you have in a product, the higher the chance of it breaking down on the skin. A product with more pigment and less vehicle will “stay put” because it’s harder for the product to move.

Visit our YouTube Channel for some make-up tutorials and have fun trying different looks and techniques on yourself! With anything, practice makes perfect. If you can, come out to our free workshops. They’re taught by our MUD Make-up artists and are open to anyone who wants to learn more about how to apply like a pro.

The following MUD products were all developed with a high-pigment formula.

  • MUD Cream Foundation
  • MUD Concealers
  • MUD Eye Colors
  • MUD Pressed Powders
  • MUD Cheek Colors

MUD products can be purchased on mudshop.com

Safety Tips

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Officer Oscar Kendrick visited the MUD Burbank Campus yesterday and spoke with our students about safety awareness, when to call 911 and when to call your local police department.  Here are some take-away points from his visit:

  • You should know where the nearest police department is. (Near Burbank Campus: Burbank Police Department: 200 N 3rd St, Burbank, CA (818) 238-3000/ Near MUD Campus: NYPD 16 Ericsson PLace, NY 10013 (212) 334-0611
  • Have the phone number of your local police department programmed in your phone
  • If you call 911 from your cell phone they cannot track your location.  If possible you should call from a landline
  • When traveling to and from campus, you should always try traveling in pair
  • Stay in well-lit areas when at all possible when you are walking from one point to another
  • Have your keys in hand when walking to your car
  • If you are being followed to your car, hit the panic button on your car keys
  • Never leave a purse, wallet, GPS dash mount, keys or anything of value in your car. If you do, make sure they are not visible.
  • Always be aware of your surroundings

The above are just a few safety tips to consider; please visit the LAPD’s Crime Prevention page for more tips on how to keep safe.

Industry Speaks: Steve Prouty

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Steve Prouty was recently awarded the Guild Award for his prosthetic makeup work on Bad Grandpa and has also just been nominated for an Academy Award for the same work. Along with our congratulations, we’d also like to thank Steve for being our Industry Speaks guest last night.

We always ask our guests to talk about how they got started in make-up—what led them in the direction of this career. Steve shared with us that he wanted to be an actor, but that didn’t pan out so well. He grew up in Atlanta, which wasn’t the ripest area for actors to develop a career. In school while studying acting, he learned a little about your basic out-of-the-kit make-up application. He was intrigued by the process and sought to learn more. He came across two books that became great resources; they were Stage Make-up by Richard Corson and Techniques of Three Dimensional Make-up by Lou Baygan Everything he owes to on-the-job training.

Steve credits Bob Shelley for “taking him under his wing” and giving him his first opportunities to work on things like test dummies and weapons and other miscellaneous projects. In the 90’s, Steve made his way out to Los Angeles where he met Jake GarberMike Burnett and Colin Penman who taught him the skills he has today. As many special make-up effects artist mention, resources were extremely limited, even as early as 20 years ago, so hands-on training was valuable experience.

MUD Los Angeles student Rebecca Abraham asked, “what do we need to do to get to an Oscar level.” Steve responded,

“Never be completely satisfied with your work. Critique it. Have others critique it. Keep learning and absorb as much as you can. You always have to want to do better than what you’ve done before.”

Today, Steve’s credits include How the Grinch Stole Christmas, Planet of the Apes, Buffy the Vampire Slayer,   Pirates of the Caribbean: At World’s End, Bad grandpa and more.

Get the Look with MUD: Beyoncé at the Grammys

56th GRAMMY Awards - Press Room

When Beyoncé dropped her latest self-titled visual album BEYONCÉ on December 13, 2013 with 14 songs and 17 beautiful videos, the make-up world knew that they were just given an entire year’s-worth of make-up inspiration.  As if a year’s-worth of inspiration wasn’t enough, Beyoncé will continue to inspire again and again at award shows with live performances, on Instagram, in fashion magazines, etc.

We took her latest make-up look from the Grammy’s and detailed how you might recreate it with MUD.

Beyonce’s look included a full arched brow, sultry warm eyes and an intense lip.

Get the Look with MUD

For the brow, use MUD’s 210 brush and black or rich brown eye pencil. Swipe the brush bristles over the tip of the pencil to load the brush with color. Then, fill in the brow shaping the brow upward. Using this method of application, as opposed to using the pencil directly on the brow, will give you the rich look of a pencil without it looking too intense.

To get Beyoncé’s sultry warm eyes, use MUD’s Apricot for the brow bone, Canyon in the crease and Graphite on the upper and lower lash lines. Smudge the color across your lower lash line so that it’s soft and “smoky” with the 810 Smudger brush. Use MUD’s black eye pencil in the upper and lower water line to define the shape of the eye.

To get an intense red lip, line your lips with MUD’s Mauve lip liner.  Then, fill in the center with Ladybug lipstick and blend. The mauve + red will create an intense maroon color. Finally, add a beautiful glow to your cheeks with MUD’s Poppy blush using the 510 Duster brush.

Voila! If you prefer hands-on learning, join one of our Free Make-up Workshops held every Saturday at MUD Burbank (Los Angeles) and New York. Looking for MUD products near you? Check out our locator. Here, you’ll find MUD retailers, distributors, MUD studios, partner schools and MUD’s main campuses. Or, you can always find our products available on mudshop.com

The Man Behind IMATS and Make-up Artist Magazine: Michael Key

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With IMATS Los Angeles just around the corner, the buzz surrounding this huge industry event is deafening. To give you an idea of how big, let’s just say 10K tickets were sold and over 200 vendors will be present. The show offers excellent make-up educations classes taught by the industry’s best, live on-stage presentations, special make-up effects demonstrations, show-only offers by the best make-up brands, Battle of the Brushes student competition and more!

How did something that was just a “trial” become so popular? Last night, when Deverill Weekes interviewed Michael Key, make-up artist and the man behind IMATS and Make-up Artist Magazine, we got a simple answer: there was a need for it.

Michael is a musician who was caught in a twist of fate. When asked what started his career in make-up, he replied, “music was my first love, but it wasn’t taking. I’ve always loved movies, and I came across ‘Cinefex’ a magazine that covers behind the scenes movie make-up. It had a step-by-step on how to sculpt, and I thought, `I could do that’. So, I went to a hobby store, purchased plaster and clay and did everything wrong.” It turns out, that after 7 weeks, he successfully sculpted a head. He and his friends used it as a prop to scare people. Then, he got his friends to pitch in to purchase foam latex, so they too could have their own props. Project after project Michael was able to make somewhat of a portfolio, although, he credits his “gift of gab” for getting him his first make-up effects studio job.

Michael’s make-up career includes five Emmy Award nominations, and two wins for Star Trek: Deep Space Nine. His make-up credits include Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, Planet of the Apes, How the Grinch Stole Christmas, Charmed, Batman and Robin and more. (IMDb: Michael Key)

Deverill asked, “Who were your heroes and mentors?” With no hesitation, Michael names Michael Westmore, Jack Dawn, Christopher Tucker, Jack Pierce, Rick Baker, and Dick Smith. He credits Michael Westmore for teaching him lessons you don’t learn in a text book, like how to work with a producer and how to present yourself as a class act. He is grateful for Dick Smith for agreeing to be a part of the first IMATS stating that because of Mr. Smith, it was a success.

During Michael Key’s early career, he noticed that there weren’t enough resources for aspiring artists. Everything he learned was from trial and error and knowledge shared by his peers and mentors. Because this knowledge was so valuable, he was inspired to get it in writing and thus Make-up Artist Magazine was born. He admits that he’s shocked it went beyond the first three issues, but today we celebrate 106 issues of a great publication.

The interview concluded with a raffle for two sets of sold-out IMATS tickets.

Thank you Michael Key for sharing your story with us, and thank you fate for putting Cinefex in his hands!

2014 Golden Globe Beauties

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This year’s Golden Globes red carpet event featured lots of familiar faces with fresh new looks. A slew of gorgeous dresses were on display and an array of new make-up looks accentuated the features that make each actress so stunningly unique.  With far more favorites to name, a few looks that were breath-taking included Jennifer Lawrence’s vampy lip color with a hint of silvery eye shadow, as well as Nina Dobrev’s tinted lips and cheeks with a gorgeous bronzed smoky eye.  Kerry Washington’s metallic eyes were stunning and Sandra Bullock’s mauve lips paired wonderfully with her tricolored dress. And, while this was Lupita Nyong’o’s first time on the Golden Globes Red Carpet, she was a media favorite. She worked the red carpet beautifully with a luminous smile, high-shine red lips, gold dusted eye shadow and a drop-dead gorgeous red caped dress by Ralph Lauren.  While everyone will be talking about who wore it best, it’s obvious that there are so many timeless looks that will influence the upcoming trends of 2014.      

Congratulations RAWartists!

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Make-up Designory is a proud sponsor of RAWards, the biggest indie arts award show in the world! We would like to congratulate Angela Rene Roberts for receiving the Make-up Artist of the Year award, as well as all of the National winners and all of the talented artists who participated.

An awards ceremony will be held to honor all of the National winners on Sunday, January 19, 2014 at 618 S. Spring Street, Los Angeles, CA from 7-10:30p.

About RAWawards

RAWards is the biggest indie arts award show in the world! The show is held annually by RAW:natural born artists, an independent arts organization. At the end of every RAW season (October), RAW hosts a 2.5 month competition and judging process that selects nine winners out of over 15,000 artists that participate across the United States.

Over the course of the competition, RAW artists engage in online voting, city-based semi-finals showcases and final judgments by the official RAWards judges line-up, which consists of a mix of creative celebrities and well-known industry professionals in each artistic field. The winner receive career-building prize packages such as placement in boutiques and galleries, products, services, consultations with the judges and exposure of a lifetime.

MUD and Beauty Launchpad Magazine

Beauty Launchpad December 2013

MUD Los Angeles photographer Derek Althen had the opportunity to work with Beauty Launchpad Magazine and recruited two recent MUD grads Lisa Ribar and Natalie Stow to assist Linda Flowers (Hair Dept.Head/ The Hunger Games: Catching Fire) and Marie DelPrete (Make-up artist/ The Hunger Games) for the shoot. Derek also recruited MUD grad Denise “Dee” Zamora to assist with photo shoot production.

The magazine gave credit to Make-up Designory for providing the studio space as well as credit to the MUD grads for assisting Make-up and Hair.

Other Artist involved:
Michelle Bouse: Make-up specialist/ Lips, eye lash & brows.
Guy Tang: Hair for male model. http://www.beautylaunchpad.com/video-tutorial-hunger-games-inspired-winter-lavender-hair-color

Link to Beauty Launch Magazine digital version.
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/creativeage/launchpad_201312/#/60
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/creativeage/launchpad_201312/#/52

Beautiful work everyone!