Make-up Designory’s Lead Make-up Artist Sean Conklin was this week’s Industry Speaks presenter. His presentation on “Face Charts” was so thorough, we thought we’d recap it all in detail for you.
MUD’s face charts were designed with textured paper to hold make-up beautifully. The “tooth” of the paper is what holds the pigment, leaving a smooth surface.
Before you get started, you may want to reference sample tear sheets for highlights and shadows to aid in creating a beautiful face chart. First, determine what undertone and shade to start with. The base looks much darker on paper than on the skin, so choose a lighter color, but stay in the same undertone. Use a small area on the lower side of the face chart for your color swatches. Once you find the perfect color(s), load Brush 350 and apply around the eye area of the face chart. Be sure to blend away from the eye to achieve a smooth surface. Blend the base out before reloading the brush. Apply the base directly under and above the eye brows and blend outward.
Next, follow the perimeter of the lips and blend outward. For the larger areas like the forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin, fill in from the outer perimeter and work your way in until the entire face is based out. Dust lightly with a Loose Powder and Brush 700. Use the Taupe Eye Color and Brush 800 to add dimension to the forehead, cheekbones, jaw line, and chin. To create a bridge on the nose, you might choose a smaller brush, like the 300.
For the eyes, fill in the eye brows with your desired color and brush 210 to frame the eye area. Begin the eye color treatment with a highlight, usually on the lid and brow bone with Brush 300. Next, apply the shadow in the crease with Brush 300 for preciseness or Brush 810 for a natural well blended application. Sometimes a mix of both tools is beneficial. Brush 800 is perfect for maximum blending. If the design calls for it, use the same technique for the lower lid. Lastly, for added intensity, try a wet application. At this point, ask yourself, “Do I need to add definition to the eye?” If so, the Brown or Black Cake Liner works beautifully with the 100 Brush.
Cheeks: If the design calls for it, add warmth to the face chart just like you would with a person. Lightly sweep the Cheek Color on the forehead, cheeks and jaw line with Brush 700.
Lips: To complete the look, choose your favorite Lip Pencil or warm toned Eye Colors to complete the look. The key is to apply and blend. After you create the ultimate lip color, add dimension and definition to distinguish between the upper and lower lip.
For more information on upcoming Industry Speaks events, please see our Facebook Events Calendar. They’re free and open to the public!